Old Kilcullen is a spectacular ecclesiastical site located on top of a small hill, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside that stretch as far as the eye can see. From this elevated vantage point, one can appreciate the lush greenery and rolling landscapes that characterize the area, including the massive hill-fort, Dún Ailinne, which was once the seat of the Kings of Leinster. This historic site not only boasts rich archaeological significance, but it also serves as a testament to the region’s long and storied past, where ancient traditions and legends intertwine with the natural beauty of the landscape, captivating visitors and locals alike who come to explore its wonders and immerse themselves in its heritage.

Irish Rebellions

During the Irish Rebellion of 1641, which marked the beginning of the Confederate Wars in Ireland, the site experienced a tumultuous series of events, initially being taken by Parliamentary forces before ultimately falling into the hands of the Royalist army. This shifting control exemplified the chaotic landscape of Ireland during this tumultuous period. In 1647, the site was retaken by the Parliamentarians, who, in a show of power and a desire to erase the Royalist presence, burned it to the ground, leaving behind significant scars of destruction. The site endured further significant damage during the upheaval of the 1798 rebellion, a critical moment in Irish history characterized by widespread discontent and armed resistance against British rule. Old Kilcullen emerged as a pivotal location during this time, as it was the site of the Battle of Kilcullen on 27th May 1798, where approximately 300 Irish rebels took a strong position, entrenched in the old graveyard. Their initial success in the first phase of the conflict was met with fierce resistance as they were ultimately driven out by General Dundas. It was during this fierce battle that the iconic round tower was partially destroyed, and the Romanesque church suffered extensive damage, marking a poignant moment in the site’s history. Drawings of the site in the 18th century, prior to the rebellion, depicted a well-preserved and complete structure, reflecting a time of tranquility and religious significance, which sharply contrasts with the devastation that occurred during these violent conflicts. This juxtaposition serves as a reminder of the turbulent history of Ireland during this period, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the memories of those who lived through it.

Remnants of Ancient Past

Apart from these recent dramatic events having taken place on the hill of Old Kilculle, there is much more ancient history ascribed to this place, deeply rooted in Ireland’s rich heritage. The monastery of Old Kilcullen was founded as early as in the 5th century by Saint Patrick, who is regarded as the foremost patron saint of Ireland and played a crucial role in the spread of Christianity throughout the region. Over the centuries, this sacred site has witnessed the ebb and flow of time, with much of its original architecture eroded but still whispering stories of the past. There are only a few remaining remnants today on the site, serving as a window into the historical milestones of this once-prominent monastery. Notably, there is a stump of a round tower from the 11th century, a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the time, as well as the remains of a Romanesque Church from the 12th century that hints at the community’s devotion and artistic spirit. The shafts of two granite crosses stand proudly, signaling the artistry of early Irish stone masons, and an undecorated base of the third one adds mystery to the site’s narrative. The shaft of high crosses comes from the 9th or 10th centuries, exemplifying the evolving styles and influences over the years. The sculpture of the smaller shaft is better preserved, and perhaps it can be tentatively interpreted to reveal insights into the cultural and religious influences that shaped the region during its early medieval period.

West Face of the West Shaft

The  west face of the shaft seems now the most complex. The third panel up perhaps shows Samson slaying the lion. I believe it is rather a representation of David, while Samson is represented on the north side of the same shaft. Below, there is either a scene showing Christ entering to Jerusalem or a famous Coptic scene of the Flight into Egypt. As a donkey is turned to right, it means that Infant Jesus has  just fled Bethlehem and is on his way to Egypt. The other way round would mean the Holy Family  is coming back to their Land. The imagery of the Flight into Egypt, with the donkey turned right and a palm tree in the background, can be also prefigure the scene of Christ’s Entry into Jerusalem. At the bottom, we can observe five human heads, the upper part of the damage scene. The fourth scene up bears a horseman blowing a trumpet. Finally, we can see the lower part of Crucifixion being once the part of the scene in the head of the cross.

Protagonist of the North Side

The top panel of the north side of the same shaft may illustrate Cain slaying his prostrate brother Abel with an axe. It is an enigmatic scene. On the north side of the shaft there are three panels alltogether. In the middle, there is an  interlace, and at the bottom, there is David slaying the lion. The top panel on the north side is most famous of all carved in Old Kilcullen. Apart from two characters, there are three mysterious objects: there is a  square, an object looking like a lady’s bag,  and a sort of a stick. The square is interpreted  as the altar from the scene of Abel and Cain, yet two remaining objects have no meaning in this scene. Some scholars translate this dramatic scene as an episode showing from the life of a bishop Saint Mac Tail, who died in 548. Tradition goes that Saint Patrick had placed Mac Tail as Bishop of Old Kilcullen. However, dates seem incorrect for this with Mac Tail’s death usually given at 548 while the founding of the site is often given as 448. He was called “the son of adze”, the founder of Kilcullen, represened while smitting the enemy who is lying dead below. The objects around him would signify respectively the Gospel book, just behind his head, the crozier in his hand, and finally this mysterious bag would be a (hand) bell, typically held by Irish monks. In this case, this biblical scene changes and has a historic meaning.

Flight into Egypt on the Isles

Nevertheless, the biblical scenes of both New and Old Testaments prevailed in carvings of high Irish crosses. The Flight into Egypt, for example, is a story recounted in the Gospel of Saint Matthew and in New Testament Apocrypha. It is a story especially repeated in Coptic Egypt. According to the Coptic Orthodox Church, the Holy Family’s journey in Egypt lasted 3 years, 6 months, and 10 days. The pilgrimage route that exists now in Egypt consists of 25 sites, tracing the Holy Family’s steps along their way. The scene often appears on the British Isles.

Lion Slayers

Very famous are also biblical heroes killing the lion. The Bible text says that “the Spirit of the Lord came upon (Samson) in power so that he tore the lion apart with his bare hands as he might have torn a young goat” (Judges 14:6). Killing a lion is a very common biblical subject. It appears in the episode of Samson as well as in the story of David, who kills the lion, the bear, and the Giant. Such a motive is also shared by Mesopotamian or Greek myths of such heroes as Gilgamesh or Hercules. In the Christian context, it stands for the victory of faith over seemingly stronger evil powers.

From Ancient Mesopotamia to Early Christian Ireland

The south side of the shaft has also three panels that are intricately designed. They show some kind of ornament with elaborate figural representations adorning both the top and the bottom panels. The top panel features a captivating human interlace, showcasing the skillful artistry of the period, while the bottom panel bears a magnificent tree of life, a symbol of growth and renewal, meticulously guarded by two winged quadrupeds that add an air of mystique to the scene. The scene is typical of biblical imagination, coming from ancient Mesopotamia, where such narratives were woven into the cultural fabric, reflecting the values and beliefs of the society at that time.

East Face Announcing the Gospel

The east face of the shaft is very worn and damaged, yet it once proudly displayed three intricately carved panels, each adorned with four figures that possibly represented the Apostles. Although the panels are eroded today, the characters of the 12 Apostles must have been rendered individually with various figure features. They once held significant meanings and narratives from biblical accounts, inviting contemplation and reverence from those who gazed upon them. Some of the figures, in particular, once bore books, which likely symbolized their roles as bearers of Christian knowledge and teachings. Over time, the elements have dulled the clarity of these images, but traces of their former glory still hint at the artistry and devotion that went into their creation, reminding us of the historical and spiritual legacy captured in this ancient relic.

The Eastern Shaft

The taller, also known as eastern, of the two shafts appears to have had some sculpture before  but this is now very damaged so the details are no longer recognizable, so this is why it cannot be interpreted as much as the West shaft. The Round Tower of the monastic site in Old Kilcullen is mainly built of granite and comes from the 11th century. It measures 11 metres in height with its doorsill at 1,8 metre. It possibly represents a sub-species of half-size towers. It has a round headed door with inclined door jambs. There is just one small lintelled window in the drum.

The Royal Site

Old Kilcullen is 2 kilometres south of Kilcullen village. The monastic site is on an elevated area, overlooking the surrounding countryside. Old Kilcullen is a significant and historical site. The Vikings attacked it twice, in 932 and in  944 or in 1114. The raid of 936 saw 1000 prisoners being taken, according to the Annals of the Four Masters. From its 5th century origins the site grew in size into a walled town during the Norman period. At this time there were defensive walls, seven towers and a castle, none of which has survived. In 1319 a bridge was erected over the Liffey river nearby and a town started to develop here which is today Kilcullen. When this town started to develop Old Kilcullen went into a steady decline. The old monastic site is today a secluded place, worth stopping for a few minutes to  relax and admire a beautiful view of Wicklow mountains and towards Dún Ailinne, the great royal site of early Gaelic Ireland, where the kings of Leinster were inaugurated. The graveyard is still in use today.

Fetured image: The view of Old Kilcullen Monastic Site, County Kildare. Photo by Felipe Almeida. Copyright©Archaeotravel. Copyright©Archaeotravel.

By Joanna
Faculties of English Philology, History of Art and Archaeology.
University of Silesia in Katowice, Poland;
Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński University in Warsaw, Poland;
University College Dublin, Ireland.

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